Saturday, November 24, 2007

Dog Breed: Know About McNab

Hi friends! Here is something that most of you are not aware of. Yes, I am joking. I am going to talk about McNab dog breed (not Mc Nab). Most of you probably do not know that there is a small short haired really wonderful working dog breed known as McNab.
free dogs and puppies, dog days of summer, dog illnesses symptoms, dog pregnancy symptoms, dog illness symptoms, dog training, symptoms of sick dog, symptoms of dog worms, dog health symptoms, dog birthday cake recipe, symptoms of dog diseases, sick dog symptoms, dog pictures, dog health, dog diseases symptoms
Mentioned below is a direct quote from an article, entitled “A Dog Detective Does a Scotland Yard Job” that was published by Al Testado, who’s a Times Sports Editor.

"The McNab Dog is truly a unique breed in that it is a native stockdog of Northern California via the Grampian Hills of Scotland. The first mention of this breed is in 1885 during the ranch and farming days of the young state of California. Alexander McNab came to the United States from Glasgow, Scotland in 1868 and settled on a large spread which is now known as the McNab Ranch. A year later he returned with his young family and a Border Collie. In 1885, sixteen years later, he returned to Scotland for the expressed purpose of obtaining new sheep dogs. He purchased two Border Collies from the Grampian Hills of central Scotland named Peter and Fred.

Peter worked either lead or drive, while Fred was strictly a lead dog. These two, breeding with selected females, originated in the United States, the line of McNab shepherds. The original stock was supported from time to time by importations from Scotland. Border Collies are of two varieties, long haired and short haired. The long haired type is particularly adapted to the severe weather of Scotland, but the dry, steep ranges of Mendocino County required a short-haired dog, both because of the summer heat but also on account of the burs, fox-tails, and stickers which are not picked up so easily by the short-haired dog. For these reasons, the importations by the McNab family have been mostly of the short-haired type.

A McNab differs markedly in appearance from the usual English Collie. The McNab dog breed is medium size, alert and cat-footed, has a black coat with white markings -- white muzzle with a white streak running up the head between the eyes, usually a white neck and chest, white tipped tail and one or more white feet. Its ears are medium sized and somewhat pointed; usually the upper half of the ear flops over. The tail is not bushy. These dogs have been bred primarily for performance in working stock--not for color conformation -- although experience has shown that the best performance usually is obtained from the original type."

Often McNabs dog breed are also confused with the Australian Kelpie, because the look is very much the same (reddish-brown coat, short-haired dog and of almost the same size). But a Kelpie has the ears fully erect and bushy tail, while the ears of McNabs are not fully erect and the tails are not bushy.

Friday, November 2, 2007

DOG OBEDIENCE ADVICE & TIPS

DOG OBEDIENCE ADVICE & TIPS

There are a few dog training do's & don'ts!
here are the top 3 dog obedience tips:

1. Your dog or puppy will always want your attention & basically your dog will do anything to get it. So top tip no 1, give your dog attention when he/she does something right & you should ignore any behaviour that is wrong.

2. Be consistent. Always use the same commands for desired actions. If you keep chopping & changing the commands then how is your poor dog supposed to know what you expect him/her to do?

3. Reward or Punish immediately. Any praise or penalty that is dished should be made immediately. If this is done a few minutes later, it will have absolutely no effect on the dog - your dog will have no idea what it is being praised or punished for.

Three basic tips to help you out - however, I would suggest that you invest in a good dog training guide such as SitStayFetch which is the web's no 1 dog training program or source the services of a professional dog trainer in your area.

Thanks for reading!

Wednesday, October 31, 2007

A Speacial Recipe For Your Dog


My REX and REVA both love this special treat a lot -- even more than their regular beef meal at times. How about your "SCISSOR"? I'm sure SCISSOR will also love to have this wonderful treat. And you will just wonder how easy it is to make for your SCISSOR.

You will need:

  • Whole wheat flour -- 4 cups

  • Buffalo milk -- 1 full cup

  • Vegetable oil (not mustard oil) -- 1/2 Teaspoon full

  • Chicken liver (shreded) -- 100 gms

  • Eggs -- 2 (large size)

  • Water -- 1 cup


How to make:

  • Mix all the ingredients together

  • Put the mixture into the mixture grinder and mix it well for five minutes

  • Bake it for 40 minutes at 325 degree.

  • Take it out, keep it covered and let it cool down to room temperature

  • It will become hard -- like dog biscuit

  • Break it and give it to your SCISSOR.

If you give it as tidbits during training it would work like a real blast.

Monday, October 29, 2007

My Canine Friends are Dying to Teach Peruvian Army the Art Of Killing

What else my dog friends have to do for us mankind??? They have been doing a lot for us -- guiding the blinds to the destination, fetching the news papers to their old masters, guarding and protecting our properties, going down to fetch games for their hunter masters, carrying messages during the war times and what not?

But it's really painful to say that they are now dying to teach the respected soldiers of Peru how to kill. Shame on the Government of Peru and educated Peruvian army officers !!!

The Peruvian commandos are tought how to kill where live dogs are spreadeagled and tied between the poles fixed vertically into the ground. The muscular Peruvian heroes slash and stab the helpless creature to death. This is how they are tought how to kill. Shame on the Government of Peru and educated Peruvian army officers !!! This is not the end...

I will not put the picture in my blog but all I can do is to redirect you to read about what's going on over there. Click here. This barbarism of the Peruvian military was first brought to notice by World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA), which is a British charity. I owe millions of thanks to WSPA to bring the fact before the mass attention.

Dog Breeds -- Pure Breed, Cross Breed & Mongrels

Developed over the millions of years the dogs are the man's best friend. Historians and scientists have provided us with enough scopes to look back to the evolution and development of the animal that we love as dog and think to be our best friend. The man-dog relationship was depicted in a manuscript of 18th century and by an ancient art made on a Greek vase during a period, spanning back to about 425 BC.

During this long evolutionary period dogs have changed a lot. From the dogs with no specific origin we have now a wide assortment of pedigree dogs -- Pure breed dogs such as Labrador Retrievers, Pit Bull Terriers, Afghan Hounds, Schnauzers, Gordon Setters, Grey Hounds etc.
  • Pedigree Dogs are those dogs that have been bred as the helping hands of mankind and bred actually on the basis of the pre-written standard set forth by any recognized association or a Kennel Club. The wide range of pure bred dogs are divided into seven distinctive groups -- Sporting Breed, Non-Sporting Breed, Terriers, Working Breed, Utility Breed, Hounds and Herding Breed. Until the fag end of 1998 there were only 6 groups. With the beginning of 1999 there was one more group and that was the Pastoral Group.

A pure bred Boston Terrier

  • Mixed breed and mongrels are the dogs that do not have a specific origin. Better to define it as the specimen from mixed parentage. Although it's for true that many pure breeds that we find today are the results of planned crossing of two or more different breeds. For instance, Bull Terrier. This particular breed came about by crossing of old fighting dogs carrying Bulldog gene with Terriers (notably the English White Terriers, which are extinct now).
Can you imagine that this cute little pooch is a Chihuahua-Pug mixed

However the mongrels (also termed as a tyke, crossbreed, cur, a bitsa, mutt,or random-bred dog) are as appealing as the dogs of pure breed and may have as much characters as a royal German Shepherd Dog. I have often seen the hybrid vigor of the mongrels often surpasses the beauty and glamor of the purebred or pedigree dogs. If you compare one purebred to one mixed breed, either may come out ahead and you may wonder as to how a mongrel can be a mind blowing pet. I'll come up with a snap of a beautiful specimen -- LIZA (GSD+Labrador) sometimes later. Stay tuned!

Sunday, October 28, 2007

Canine Breed -- Which Breed of Dog!!!

Well, I am sure that you are interested in dog world and canine breed -- otherwise you wouldn't have dropped by "Welcome Dog Lovers" (WDL). Often people ask me, which breed of dog should be the right choice for them. The answer is not as simple as "the one that fascinates you the most"!!! Not again a big deal either. All you need to understand the dog breeds. Here's a simple guide that may help you understand what a canine breed actually is.

What is a canine breed? Putting very precisely it's a specific breed of dog that have been bred to conform to a Kennel Club's pre-framed breed standard (a written blue print for the breed along with it's purpose). In the dog world three distinctive approaches have been combined to give an idea of a specific canine breed.

  • Ancestry: All the specimens descending from a particular origin (founder specimen/group) are designated as a specific breed.

  • Typology: Canine breeds are also distinguished by the type or physique of the dog. Canines have been categorised into five classes of breed -- toy breed, small, medium breed, large breed and giant breed.
  • Purpose: The canine breed are distinguished by their purpose and utility.

    While some breeds have been bred to be an ideal family companion and watchdog(such as the Keeshonden), the others are bred to herd sheep or to go for hunting with their hunter masters. There are working breed, sport breed, gun dogs, utility group, terrier group.

    Spare a serious thoughts before purchasing the dog. If you want a small breed that would make a great companion and would be good with kids, a Pomerenian will never be a right choice. Because poms are sometimes agressive with children. Beagles are better. On the other level, if you want to have a giant dog with appropriate degree of aggressiveness and highly intelligent, Bloodhound may be a better pick and not a Tosa. These are only a couple of examples.

Friday, October 19, 2007

Dogtionary For Dog Lovers -- Dictionary for Show Titles and Ratings

Here's a list of all the typical words that you may come across while dealing with dog shows and titles. This is a Dictionary for Show Titles and Ratings that will help you know and understand the wide range of words tat are used by the dog lovers related to dog shows and sports.


A

A:
Ausreichend. Used to refer Sufficient Show and/or Perfirmance Rating.

a:
Used as a symbol to indicate the condition of the hips fo the dogs that are suitable for breeding

AD:
Ausdauerpruefung. "AD" is a Title given to the dogs that have qualified the test called "Ausreichend", which consists to two phases -- 12 mile run and Simple Obedience.

Angekoert:
Title given to the dogs to show that they are recomended for breeding. This Title is given after the evaluation of some of the most vital parameters like body structure, temperament, angulations, pigmentation, basic instincts, hereditary health disorders, etc.

B

BH:
Blindenhund. TItle given to the Guide Dogs for Blind

BIS:
Best in Show

BOS:
Best of Opposite Sex

BpDH: Bahnpolizei Diensthund. Title given to the Railroad Police Service Dogs

BSAVA: British Small Animal Veterinary Association

Bundesieger:
(Leistungssieger)
Title for the Working Dog Champion of the year.


C

CACIB:
Centro Addestramento cinofilo Bresciano. This is an International dog show for all breeds, where the dogs are awarded the International Beauty Champion Certificate. The CACIB show is organized twice each year at in Spring and in Autumn.

CAC:
C.A.C. is an esteemed National Dog Show where the dogs and bitches of all breeds are awarded with certificates of national beauty champion candidates.

Ch:
Champion

CLM:
Cutaneous Larva Migrans. This is a skin problem caused when the larvae of the hookworm in dogs burrown under the dermal layer. The dog's ksin turns red causing irritation and inflammation.


D

DH:
Diensthund. Title given to the service dogs


E

Europameister:
The title awarded to the World Champion SchH III Dog


F


FC:
Field Champion

FH:
Fahrtenhund. This is the most advanced tarcking title awarded by the SV.


G


GRH:
Grenzenhund. Title given to Border Patrol Dog.

Gut:
"Good" Show Performance Rating


H


HGH:
Herdengebrauchshund. Title for the Herding Dogs

Hutesiger:
Title awarded to the herding dog champion in the German Herding Dog Championship Show.


I

IPO (I, II,III):
Schutzhund (I, II, III) as per the International rules.

J

K

KKL I:
Koerklasse I. The title given to the dogs that are specially recommended for breeding.

KKL II:
Koerklasse I. The title given to the dogs that are suitable for breeding.

KrH:
Kriegshund. Title Given to the War Dogs


L


LawH:
Title given to Avalanche Dogs. Also marked as LawH-Avalanche

Lbz:
Lebenszeit. Title is given to the dogs after the quality of breed is surveyed for life time.

LP:
Less Promising

Leistungssieger:
(Bundesieger) Title for the Working Dog Champion of the year.


M


M:
Mangelhaft. Faulty show or performance rating

MH:
Meldehund. Title given to the Messenger Dogs in the army.

N

O

P


P:
Promising. This title is obtainable only in the puppy classes.

PDH:
Polizei Dienst Hund. Title given to the Working Police Dogs

PH:
Polizeihund. Title given to the Police trained Dogs.

Preishuten Sieger:
Highest title awarded to the sheepherding Champion dog of the year.

PSP:
Polizei Schutzhund Prufung. Title given to the Police Protection Dogs


Q


R

S

SchH(I, II & III):
Schutzhund Title

Schutzhund:
German word for "Protection Dog". It also refers to a dog sports or test that consists of three distinctive phases -- 1st Obedience, 2nd Tracking and 3rd Protection.

SG:
Sehr Gut. This is a title obtainable as the highest rating by the dogs under 2 years old at the USA Schutzhund show. It is also the highest rating that is obtainable for the untitled dogs.

SH:
Sanitatshund -- Red Cross Dog. "SH" is also a title given to tracking dog (Suchhund)

Sieger:
Grand Victor title at German Sieger Show; Siegerin(used for bitches)

SV:
Verein fur Deutsche Schaferhund (German Shepherd Dog Club of Germany)

T

U

V

V:
Vorzuglich; Often said as V Rating. This is rating given for the Excellent show and performance.

VA:
Vorzuglich-Auslese. This title is given to the dogs for their excellent show performance in the esteemed Sieger Show. This is the highest award obtainable for the German Show Dogs. Each year 12 to 15 dogs and bitches are awarded with VA ratings, titled as VA 1, VA 2 ... etc.

VDH: Verein fur deutsche Hundesweessen (Club for German Dogs)

VH: Vorhanden; Title given to dogs that have shown sufficient performance in the show ring.

VP:
Very Promising. This title is seen only in the puppy classes.

W

X

Y

Z

ZB:
Zuchtbewertung, which is a Conformation show rating.

ZH (I &II):
Zollhund I & II; Custom Dogs.

ZPr: Zuchtpruefung; Similar as "Angekoert". Title Given to the dogs to show that they are recommended for breeding.


Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Evolution of Dogs

Well, I can't make out what should I start with!!
ummm!! How if I start with the very scratch level. Yes, that's best. Let's talk about something very interesting. I found a few thousands of dog lovers so far but a very few .... very very few of them really showed interest about the Evolutionary Process of Canidae. Here's how ....
Simply looking at them, it is really diffficlut to imagne as to how they evolved over millions of years. Canidae history spans us back to the era of Creodonts -- some 100 to 150 millions fo years ago. This was a time when the giant size dinosaurs used to move around the place where you are now sitting and reading this piece. WIth the change of the climate the dinosaurs had to end their journey, while the Creodonts could manage to survive. Not only with what is known as canine today, but Creodonts also shared the common ancestors with all te carnivorous animals that we find these days.

Next come Hesperocyons and Miacis. While cats went on developing down from the Miacis, the Hesperocyons are believed to be the chief ancestors of what is known as dogs today. The survey and studies followed by the fossil findings of the Hesperocyons say that it is not les than 42 million years ago that Hesperocyons came into being. They had the inner ear anatomy characteristics almost similar to present day's dogs.

Although there are two schools of thoughts. While the first group use to believe that the dogs came from Hesperocyons the other group stands deadly againt this. Doesn't matter whether directly or inderectly, the dogs are descending form Hesperocyons, says the scientists.

But by this time another animal had also appeared that had a fifth toe. It is believed that this fifth toe have been shortened in to what is called "dew claws" of dogs today. Their feet and paws resembled almost like that of our present dogs. This happened during a time between the age of Hesperocyons and the Miocene period.

Around 12 million years ago before our time (during the miocene age), appeared the Wolf-like creature called Tomarctus. They used to live in pack. Have you spare a thought on the dogs' "Pack Instinct"??? This instinct was the notable features of Tomarctus. We'll talk about the dogs pack instincts sometime later. Most interestyingly Tomarctus had marked the beginning of the tooth anatomy of our modern dogs.

Gradually, with the passage of time, the basic foundation(according to the modern researchers) had appeared by the fag end of the Pliocene era(some 2 millions years ago).These were from the Canidae family, which was the direct root of the wolves, jackals, foxes, hyenas and ULTIMATELY THE DOGS!!!!!

Up Next !!!! Some really Interesting Dog Facts. Keep in touch!

Tuesday, October 2, 2007

Digging - how to stop Part II

Aside from giving your dog sufficient exercise and interestingthings to do in the yard, make sure your dog is on a high-quality premium hard kibble. Stay away from foods that are often loaded with hidden sugars, chemicals and preservatives (hidden sugars in the form of beet pulp, sucrose, fructose, etc., can exacerbate the dog’s energy levels and lead to digging), such as semi-moist dog foods.

If your dog considers the backyard (or wherever he digs) to be a place of banishment, it is more likely digging will occur there. I am suggesting that your dog should think of the backyard as more than just a place of banishment.

Are you like millions of people who put your dog out in the backyard every day you go to work? Many dogs will feel a certain level of anxiety if the backyard is the place where they’re always left alone. For many owners, this can’t be helped. It is important that you give your dog other, more positive experiences in the yard, as well.

For example, play with the dog in the backyard regularly. You can also feed the dog in the backyard and obedience train your dog in the backyard. Help the dog to associate positive things with the yard and you will be eliminating one of the major causes of digging.

Digging - how to stop Part I

Digging is a common and very normal behavior for dogs. As with all problems, it is important tounderstand the reasons behind the behavior. With digging there are many motives. Dogs dig because they are bored. They dig when it is hot because they like to lie in holes to get cooler. They dig to escape. They bury objects. Sometimes dogs simply dig because they like to.

In dealing with a digging problem, first understand that every dog has a certain amount of energy to expend each day. Sufficient exercise is often an excellent way to burn off excess energy and frequently helpsin curtailing digging behavior.

You must remember, exercise programs will vary from breed to breed and dog to dog, so check with your veterinarian. Also remember that simply leaving your dog alone in the yard does not count as exercise. You must exercise the dog!

You need to giveyour dog things to do that are more interesting to him than digging holes.

Tere are a number of creative toys that can keep most dogs occupied and interested. Consider toys like a Buster Cube or Boomer Ball.


The Buster Cube is a plastic square that you can put small pieces of food in. The dog can get the food, but only after shaking and moving the cube around. This will keep many dogs focused for
hours.


Boomer Balls are hard plastic balls that some dogs love to chase around. They are generally too large for most dogs to fit in their mouths, although many dogs will certainly try. Some dogs will bat at the ball with their paws, push it around the yard with their chests and have a great time playing ball and not digging holes.

Make it a point to play with your dog and these toys in the yard.

Doing this will get the dog interested in the toys and teach him there are other fun activities in the yard besides digging. Nylabones, Kongs, and Rhino toys will also focus your dog on something other than digging.

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

DOG TRAINING TIPS - Alpha Dog Exercises - Who's the Boss Anyway?!!

at home dog training,dog training collar,free dog training tips,dogs,dog training school,dog training online,dog training supplies,search and rescue dog training,guard dog training,dog training classes, alpha dog

Leadership exercises can confirm humans as the heads of the family pack. Once you establish this relationship, your dog will seek you out. He will want to be with you and will treat you with respect and affection. After he learns to submit to handling, all other tasks such as grooming, nail clipping, cleaning ears, and medicating will be easier to accomplish. But first he must learn that you have the power to handle him, and that handling will not lead to any harm. He must come to trust you entirely.

These exercises will help establish leadership but should not be used with an older pup who has learned to use his teeth to get his way. Exercises one and two are recommended only for small puppies up to three months of age. Exercises three and four are suitable for pups up to six months of age as long as there's no problem with aggression. Be gentle but firm with all exercises, as you would with a baby human.

Sit on the floor, then pick your pup up off the floor with both hands supporting him just behind his front legs, facing you. Hold him away from you at arms length. Look directly into his eyes. Growl at him if he struggles, using a low guttural sound. Hold him till he relaxes. Vary the time you hold him in this position from 15 to 45 seconds. Vary the location.

Sit on the floor and cradle your pup, placing one hand under his head and the other supporting his back so that he is upside down on his back, and up in the air. Hold a larger puppy across your lap. Hold the pup for 15 to 45 seconds, using the same growl as in exercise 1 if he struggles. Hold him until he relaxes.

If your puppy is large, substitute this exercise for the first two. Straddle your pup, with one of your legs on each side of him. You should be facing the same direction as your dog. Lock your fingers together under his chest, just behind the front legs. Lift his front legs off the ground for 15 to 45 seconds. If he struggles, growl at him till he is quiet.

Place your dog on the floor with all four legs pointing away from you. Hold him firmly by the neck with one hand, and press down on his midsection with the other hand. Talk to him softly after he is quiet. It might take two or three minutes to get him to relax. If he exposes his belly to be rubbed, you are on the right track. Do not allow him to struggle, get up, or nip. Always praise him lavishly in a quiet tone when he relaxes. Now is also a good time to handle all four paws and look briefly into his mouth so he can get used to tolerating your handling him gently. Be sure to do this exercise four or five times a day at first. Taper off as the pup gets more used to you and accepts your leadership.

Dog Training

Friday, May 18, 2007

Toilet Training your Dog

Dog Training

LOOKING FOR MORE HELP TRAINING YOUR DOG? CLICK HERE!

Toilet training your pet can be an easy job if done with the right amount of dedication and patience. A total commitment will be needed from your side to succeed in teaching your dog the appropriate place to pee and poop. Similarly, you need to bear in mind that your pet may take a long time to learn things. So, you will need to be patient and tolerant in case of your pet’s accidents and mistakes.

One technique to teach your pet dog to relieve himself at the appropriate place is by using a newspaper, which is dribbled with his urine. Now, position the newspaper at the exact place where you want your dog to urinate or defecate. The stench of his own urine, which is emitted by the newspaper, will help your dog remember the exact place where he is supposed to eliminate his wastes.

Remember to praise your pet every time he urinates or defecates at the designated place. However, you need to keep in mind that certain accidents may happen, while your pet is still in the learning stage. If your dog keeps on making mistakes, irrespective of being told on numerous occasions, you may make use of a crate or a leash. This will teach the dog to pee or poop in the area allotted for it. Never ever physically punish your dog for his wrongdoing. At the end of the day you need to remember that he is just an animal, who is still in his learning stages.

LOOKING FOR MORE HELP TRAINING YOUR DOG? CLICK HERE!

INCREASE YOUR DOG'S LIFESPAN BY 134% FIND OUT HOW!!

DOG TRAINING

thanks for reading!

Thursday, May 17, 2007

Playing with your dog (part II)

Another good idea is to combine training and playing.
Example: If you take your dog for a walk in open space, like a park, the mountain, a beach etc, and your dog starts walking away from you. Then a good thing to do is not to call him/her back, you can turn and start walking to the opposite direction. As soon as your dog understands that you are not close s/he will come back to you. As soon as s/he does that you can praise and pet him/her. This is a very good exercise in order to make your dog follow you when s/he is unleashed and also a great way to show him/her who the leader is in a very nice and effective way.

Examples of unacceptable ways of playing with your dog include:
Teasing, slapping, wrestling, chasing, allowing him/her to bark at you. You should not allow your dog to demand that you play with him/her. Also you should not use your hands as a toy, allowing him to nip, and tug-of-war.

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

Playing with your dog

The first step is to find the appropriate play and chew toys for your puppy. Some examples are:

  • Kong or Rhino toys
  • Nylabones
  • Hard rubber balls large enough so they don’t get stuck in your dog’s throat
  • Soft flying disks
  • Interactive play toys like Buster cube (a square box where you can put food in)

Some examples of unacceptable toys are:

  • Tennis balls and stuffed toys
  • Ropes and similar, as such toys can lead some dogs to become aggressive
  • Rubber toys that can be chewed into little pieces, as these can be threatening to your dog’s health

In order to make the desired toys attractive to your dog, they must become a main source of interaction between you and your dog. Play with your dog and his/her toys. If you also appraise the dog when playing with the toys, you will make him/her seek them out on their own. When s/he seeks them out you should praise this behavior.

A great game to play with your dog is fetch using a toy that you are holding. You throw the toy and give the “fetch” order to your dog. The desired reaction would be for the dog to bring back the toy and either leaves it in front of your feet or in your hands. This can happen either on its own or after you giving the command. In case the dog doesn’t bring back the toy, s/he runs off, refuses to give it back or just stops playing, then you should stop playing for 10-15 minutes.

Friday, April 6, 2007

HINTS ON TRAINING YOUR DOG

Dog Training

LOOKING FOR MORE HELP TRAINING YOUR DOG? CLICK HERE!

Have a dog training plan. Keep your goal in mind and know how you are going to get there. Don’t train your dog haphazardly. Have a training plan & give it a chance to work, and if it doesn’t seem to be working, reevaluate your dog training plan and change it.

What do you want? Think of what you want your dog to do instead of what you don’t want him to do, and then train him to do that. For example, instead of thinking, “How can I get my dog to stop stealing food from the counter?,” try thinking, “How can I get my dog to only eat food that is given to him?”

Stay calm and in control. If you’re supposed to be the leader and you’re so upset you can’t see straight, how does your dog feel? Maybe he thinks he should take over as the boss so as not to put you through so much stress? The more you are in control, the more freedom your dog will have. Why? Because you can take him more places because he knows how to behave.

Follow through on your commands. When you're training your dog if you don't follow through on your last command, then you have just given your dog permission to disobey your next one. His memory goes back to the last command, and he is thinking, "Well, if she let me get away with not sitting when she told me to sit, then she surely doesn't mean I have to come to her when she tells me to come."

Learn your dog’s activity cycles. Learn the time of day your dog is active and the time of day your dog sleeps. Match his activity cycle with what you are trying to train. For example, teach the “down” command when your dog is less active. Teach the “come” command when your dog is more active.

Listen to your dog. He will tell you if what you are doing is working or not. He will tell you if he is stressed. He will tell you if you are meeting his needs.

Reward, reward, reward. Give your dog lots of rewards – praise, petting, food, a walk, a ride in the car, throwing a ball, playing with a toy – for correct behavior. Make sure the reward you are using is relevant to your dog. Reward 100% of the time when he is learning a new behaviour. Then reward randomly for only the best behaviour thereafter.

Keep lessons short. End your training sessions before your dog wants them to finish. And have fun when you are training.

Use different voices.
Command is deeper than your normal voice.
Praise is higher than your normal voice.
Reprimand is more forceful than your normal voice.
A reminder -- don’t reprimand your dog for doing something wrong unless you have taught him what the right behaviour is and you are certain he understands what you expect. Shouting at your dog when you're training him doesn't help anyone!

Smile when your dog does what you want and tell him how good he is, and give him a pat or tummy rub.

Decide what the rules are. Sit down as a family and decide what the training rules are and what the command words are. Then everybody should follow the same rules and use the same commands with your dog.

Timing is everything. Make sure your timing is good – you have a maximum of 2 seconds to reward (or correct) a behaviour or your dog doesn't make the connection between his behaviour and the reward (or correction).

LOOKING FOR MORE HELP TRAINING YOUR DOG? CLICK HERE!

INCREASE YOUR DOG'S LIFESPAN BY 134% FIND OUT HOW!!

DOG TRAINING

thanks for reading!

DOG TRAINING

Hello & welcome to my blog on DOG TRAINING!
Here you will find out the best ways of training your dog, what is the best dog food for your four legged friend, the do's & don'ts of grooming your dog and other useful tips for you and your dog.

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

Teach your dog proper house behavior

doIf you want to your dog to be able to move around the house, then you must make certain that s/he is ready to do so. This means that s/he follows the rules you have set, i.e s/he is calm and obedient. If your dog is not properly trained before left unleashed in the house this could create numerous problems. Don’t feel bad for your dog this will only happen for a short period, until s/he learns what you want after consistent and proper training.

In the begging you should leash your puppy and walk him/her around the house in order to teach the appropriated behavior. When your puppy tries to reach for a shoe, or walks towards your bedroom, you can gently pool him/her back and continue your walk around the house.

When you are teaching your puppy proper behavior in the house you must be consistent and have patience.


After you have finished with your walk in the house you should lead the dog to a safe place. You can leash him/her somewhere s/he can see you and teach him/her to stay there and not walk around in the house. Please be careful when you leash your puppy. Avoid places where s/he can climb because it can be dangerous for him/her to hang from the leash!!! You can use a rag, or pillow for your puppy to stay on, or give him/her a toy, in order to make your puppy enjoy staying in the safe spot you have chosen.

If you use a crate, you can make it really enjoyable to your dog by putting all his/her toys and give him/her some food treats while in there. Then the dog will associate positively and s/he will want to stay there.



If your puppy starts doing "crazy" things when in the house, like running around or grabbing items,don't worry, this is normal and shows energy. What you can do is take him/her outside to play and exercise.

Clear roles for you and your dog

Your role as the “boss” must be clear to your dog. Also his or her role must also be clear. Some basic tips:

  • You can give him/her food, after you have finished yours.
  • Before s/he is aloud to eat you need to say it is OK.
  • If s/he doesn’t finish the whole meal at once then the food must be taken away until the next meal.
  • Don’t allow your dog to sleep on your bed, or other furniture that you use.
  • The dog should not be allowed into your bedroom, or even your kitchen.

Monday, February 26, 2007

Use the things your dog likes to teach her/him obedience

A very important rule to follow is to use the things your dog likes in order to teach her/him obedience. If you give your dog things s/he likes for free, then there is no reason to be obedient. S/he needs to understand that you have a "give and take" relationship. S/he has to “give” something (obedience) in order to gain what s/he likes (food treat).

In order to encourage a behavior you should use reinforcers. These reinforcers vary. They can be something your dog really enjoys for example: food treats, rubbing behind her/his ears, playing with a favorite toy or it can be a verbal appraisal like “Good”. The above mentioned reinforcers can be combined.
For example: you can say “Good” and also give a food treat in order to increase your dogs awareness of the situation. This combination can stop when your dog responds to what you want 9 out of 10 times.

Considering the above mentioned practices we conclude that: If you give your dog the things s/he enjoys only after s/he has obeyed, s/he will anticipate obedience, because s/he knows that it only leads to the things s/he really enjoys!

Monday, February 19, 2007

Keep your dog healthy

Anti flea and tick protection. There are various products/meds that are appropriate depending on the age of your dog, the environment where s/he lives in and various other factors. You can use collars, pills, sprays and other special products.

There are also products that help promote healthy skin and hair coat, reduce unwanted shedding and come in various kinds so you can even use them as a food treat. Also a good shampoo is essential when you give your dog a bath.

You must give to your dog protection against worms on a regular basis. Your vet will advise you on which pills must be given.

You can also give to your pet vitamins, minerals and other nutrients, always in agreement with your vet; all these can help your dog live a healthy and extended life.

Especially for dogs we must be very careful of their weight. An overweight dog is an ill dog, vulnerable to many diseases and dangers. SO, BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR TREATS! If needed there are special food products, diet products that can help maintain or reduce your dog’s weight. The best natural thing you can do to keep your dog in good health is to give her/him exercise on a regular basis.

Another important point that needs to be made concerns your dog’s dental health! Teeth should be in good health because they are really important to your dog. You can choose chewing bones or other chewable products / food treats in order to help your dog keep his/her teeth clean.
Don’t forget to keep your dog’s eyes and ears clean!

Health & Pet Meds

I would like to make some observations concerning your dog’s health. It is really important for all pet owners to monitor their pets’ behavior. As our beloved dogs, cats or other, are unable to take care of themselves and go to the doctor for their check-up we have to do it for them. We need to be in contact with a vet in order to have all necessary information on what vaccines need to be made or what actions need to be performed in different occasions. Don’t forget that our pets are like us, they might get sick; they may suffer from various problems / diseases, like arthritis, heart problems and other health issues. We need to take really good care of them, monitor their behavior and when we notice any changes, unusual behavior, go to the doctor for advice. NEVER act on your own, always consult your pet’s doctor for the right medication. There are many pet meds and the only person authorized to prescribe them is the veterinary.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Importance of appraisal & rewarding - Part II

It is also important to make your dog desire to execute a specific command. If for example you administer a physical correction during the acquisition phase of a particular command, it may decrease the dog’s desire to perform the command at all. That is why it is usually recommended to avoid physical corrections until your dog clearly understands and obeys to your commands.
Example:If you are trying to teach your dog the command “down” and what you do is pull her with the leash or you push her down with your hand, it is likely that the dog will react by moving away from your hand or resisting from being pushed. A good alternative would be to use a cookie or any food treat to lure her and increase her desire to sit down. So FOCUS ON REWARDING your dog instead of correcting her.
If the dog is being asked to perform a difficult exercise and she makes a mistake even after you try to correct her, then you should not repeat the exercise in the same way as it caused the dog to fail. Keep in mind that any corrections should not be given often, the correct timing is very important.
Example: if you are working with a dog on a long leash to develop a dependable recall (“come” - command), the timing of the correction and what you do after it will dictate what the dog learns. When you give the “come” command, if you correct the dog too early and not give her enough time to respond, she may not feel comfortable leaving your side. If you correct her after she has turned toward you or for not coming fast enough, she may learn that coming is not a rewarding behavior. This is why it is so important for your dog to understand what you want before you use corrections.

Tuesday, February 13, 2007

Importance of appraisal & rewarding - Part I

Your dog should learn to associate different kinds of rewards or appraisal with certain behaviors that you want her to repeat. It is important that you repeat any action so as the dog associates a behavior with a reward at all times.

Example: Take a cookie in your hand hold it in front of the dog and start moving it up and behind her face until you lead her to sit down as she cannot follow the cookie anymore. As soon as the dog sits you say sit and appraise her, Good Dog, and then give her the cookie. The dog will associate the appraisal and the cookie with sitting. The desired result would be after a lot of repetition; the dog connects the above mentioned actions with sitting and reaches a point where she reacts only to the word sit, thinking that the rewarding will follow. After that the dog reaches a point where she can “obey” to the word no matter who gives it. This means that another member of your family can make her sit, just by saying the word wherever the dog is (during her walk, or in the house etc). In order for her to maintain the desired behavior you should repeat it many times, even under various circumstances and in different places, so as the dog performs in the expected way at all times (at least 9 out of 10).

Monday, February 12, 2007

Conditioned & Unconditioned Reinforcement

Another important thing you must understand in order to effectively train your dog is conditioned and unconditioned reinforcement.
An unconditioned reinforcement would be for example to give food or water to your dog, because these are basic needs that need to be satisfied and should be given to your dog with no special conditions required . This kind of reinforces may vary depending on your dog’s preferences. For example some dogs may prefer food over playing, while others would enjoy playing and do not need any special conditions under which this reinforcement will take place. You should know your dog very well in order to understand what should be given for free.
A conditioned reinforcement would be for example a positive word like Good or Bravo when your dog does something you want her to repeat. Then the dog will associate the appraisal with a certain doing that you want. You can use an additional reinforcer like a treat or patting along with the verbal appraisal in order to enhance a behavior.

Sunday, February 11, 2007

What kind of punishment and when?

Some mild punishment (that does not involve any harm done to the dog mentally or physically) is in some cases recommended. It is very important to choose the right timing. This means that you can raise the tone of your voice say NO and maybe also move your finger in a strict way, or take away her favorite toy when you catch her doing something wrong.
The same actions would not be effective if they take effect after the wrong has been done without you being present and the punishment takes place on the wrong timing.

Saturday, February 10, 2007

Positive & Negative Motivation

- In order to start up the training you must treat your dog in a motivational way. For example you can offer your dog a food treat, or rub her or anything you think she would enjoy in order to give her a positive motive to do something you want.

- Another way to prevent your dog from doing something you don’t want is to use a negative motivation, like taking his toys, or ignore her.

Example: In order to support/reinforce a behavior you should for example rub her tummy when she sits beside your bed, or you can spray water on her face when she climbs on your bed and stop as soon as she gets off.

Friday, February 9, 2007

When you realise that "screaming" doesn't work

When I first got my puppy I left her in my apartment and she started sniffing around my room in order to get familiar with her new surroundings. She thought that my new leather boots were really interesting and started smelling and playing with one of them. I thought she was funny and went to get my camera. As soon as I got back she had put it in her mouth and started chewing it. I went close to her and yelled at her NO, STOP, DON’T DO THAT, NO!!! I grabbed the boot and saw her reaching for the second one. I thought that my screaming at her was not very effective after all. This is a common situation that I suppose most dog “owners” have come up against with.

I then decided that I should find a more effective way to deal with my dog’s inappropriate behavior in order to prevent things from happening rather than react in a “hysterical” way after the damage has been done.

Make sure what the problem is, in order to “fight” the cause and not just react to the problem itself.

Wednesday, February 7, 2007

Getting Started

The first question that came to my mind and I know that most people ask, is what is the right age for a dog to start training. The answer from most trainers is As Soon As Possible. It is best that you start training your puppy as soon as you get one even if it is only 2 – 3 months old. It is important that you know that any behavior on your part is a lesson to your dog no matter how young she may be. The only thing that you must do is consult with your veterinary as when your puppy is ready (all necessary vaccines have been made) to go out and interact with other dogs without being in danger of catching any disease.

Tuesday, February 6, 2007

Your Dog is totally dependant on you!

Unfortunately there are many people who think of a dog as another “game” and do not think twice before getting one. It is a great responsibility and no one should get involved in such a situation without considering all the pros and cons. When you become a dog owner you must be sure that your life will not be the same as long as you two live together. It is the same as when you become a parent only even more difficult because as people say “a dog is a child that never grows up”. You are responsible for your dog’s life as it cannot take care of itself. Your dog is totally dependant on you! Never forget that!

So, after being absolutely certain that you can adjust your life in order to get your favorite pet the next step for you and your dog is to get some training. I hope I can help you with some basic ideas. I strongly advise you to do your own reading and maybe also visit an experienced trainer, since what will follow may not be applicable in every situation. These are some general rules that may vary depending on where you live (e.g apartment or country house) or what breed your dog is.